Fall in Love with Autumn Hikes

Fall in Love with Autumn Hikes

Hike Yourself Up and Get Out There: Best Foliage Hikes

Story and photos by Leigh Sharps

While summer hikes and walks are definitely outstanding, it is the amazing array of colorful fall foliage that makes this season so very special, especially during this time of ‘social distancing’.

To get ready for viewing the most exemplary palette of bright and subdued hues, pick one of the best hikes or walks in the Lakes Region listed here to enjoy. 

This year the Old Farmer’s Almanac tells us peak foliage week begins October 5 in northern NH, with the week of October 12 being peak season in the Lakes Region (track the peak on almanac.com).

Curious as to how leaves change their color in New England? The mixture of red, orange, purple and yellow shades is due to chemical changes in the trees. The leaves manufacture the ‘food’ necessary for tree growth. The leaf cells contain chlorophyll (which produces the leaves’ green color). The cells and chlorophyll absorb power from the sunlight, which then transforms water and carbon dioxide into carbohydrates. Along with that green shade are yellow to orange pigments and a few other pigments. They are always there, but masked by the green pigment most of the year.

In the autumn, the changes in daylight and temperature stop the ‘food-making’ process and the chlorophyll breaks down, causing the green color to disappear and the other colorful pigments to become visible. Another chemical action takes place after only a few short weeks, which severs the leaf stem from the branch, causing them all to fall and bring on the advent of the next season.

Dogwoods and sumac manufacture red and purple tints and, of course, our plentiful sugar maples in this area turn to a brilliant orange. The oak family and some other species hold fast to their leaves, but the majority of trees with the most colorful plumage lose their leaves.

Evergreen trees (pine, spruce, hemlock, firs, cedars, etc.) stay true to their name Ever-Green and stay that color, or greenish, all year round. There is a whole procedure which regulates the falling of needles, cones, acorns and nuts from trees such as chestnut and beechnut and beech trees.

As always, sunlight, temperature, and the water supply to trees (droughts like we are experiencing now) all influence how bright the colors are and how long the color stays with us. Low temperatures above freezing benefit the bright reds in maples but an early frost will dilute those reds. Rainy and overcast days contribute to the intensity of colors.

Because of this year’s lack of rain, the Almanac predicts colors may not be as bright this year and may not last as long either, so get out there as soon as the leaves begin to turn to benefit from the splendor of fall. Clear, dry and cool days are the best for walks or hikes.

A very easy hike/walk with only one slight elevation attainable for all ages and pets is the Bald Ledge Trail in New Hampton. It’s only lightly trafficked, even on weekends and little known but with amazing views of Lakes Winona and Waukewan. One may also see the Sandwich, Ossipee and Squam Mountain ranges. It’s easily located off Dana Hill Road (New Hampton and/or Ashland end). Follow the public launch/canoe signs to Sky Pond, lovely in itself, and well known to fishermen. 

You may park at the pond area and walk up a short hill to the gated trailhead on the left. As of press time, there was logging going on for the first third of the trail and sometimes there is a sign prohibiting access to the trail during the week. Be observant of signs. Beyond that area, though, it is an easy 20 to 30-minute walk to the top for an amazing panorama. It is clearly the easiest hike with a most rewarding view and it is only 1.3 miles out and back. 

Another colorful autumn hike is the Red Hill Fire Tower via the Hill or Cabin Trail (Lakes Region Conservation Trust). From this summit, you may climb the fire tower for the most fantastic 360-degree views and Lakes Winnipesaukee and Big Squam are easily seen.

Hiker Leah Palmiter of Holderness, says, “Red Hill is easy and quick. A little steep but still easy-going. You can climb to the top of the fire tower (not in service) and there are absolutely beautiful panoramic views!” She also says there is a “sweet concession stand at the base.” The trail can be found on Sheridan Road in Moultonborough at the junction of Rtes. 25 and 109. It is a 3.3-mile loop but note that it is busy much of the year.

The West Rattlesnake Natural Area in Holderness and Sandwich features several trails. They range from 0.8-5.3 miles. There are so many choices and most lead to the summits of East and West Rattlesnake Mountains, which offer the most splendid views of Big Squam Lake, especially in the fall. During peak foliage time, the West Rattlesnake approach is generally busy, especially over Columbus Day weekend. There are two parking lots on Route 113 between Holderness and Sandwich to West Rattlesnake. There are strict rules for no parking on road shoulders, which will result in a $50 fine if you try...they are serious! 

The main entrance is the only crowded one, so these peaks can be reached other ways, mainly by attaining East Rattlesnake Mountain and hiking across to West....both have amazing views of the lake and there are massive lichen and moss areas over the steep ledges to discover and spots to picnic.

Trails include: The Old Bridle Path Trail (easy), Five Finger Point Trail (a walk to the foot of the lake with views at eye-level), the Bridle Path, Col Trail, Ridge Trail, Butterworth Trail, Ramsey Trail, Undercut Trail and the Pasture Trail.

 The University of New Hampshire (UNH) owns a portion of the Natural Area (Armstrong) and the Squam Lakes Conservation Society and Squam Lakes Association (SLA) manage and maintain trails. The SLA maintains a 50-mile network of trails in the central NH area.

For views of Newfound Lake, take a short drive to the Bristol/Alexandria area. Rated easy to moderate, it is a lightly trafficked 1.4-mile trail to Little Sugarloaf Mountain. It’s a loop with the trailhead across the street from the beach at Wellington State Park and connecting to the Elwell Trail. That connects to the Goose Pond Trail (splendid views around the pond) and descends back to the parking lot. The Big Sugarloaf Trail is 4.5 miles and loops back to Little Sugarloaf. ALLTrails.com recommends hiking up Little, over to Big, then back to Little and down to maximize scenery viewpoints. Part of this system is on land owned by the state. It is maintained by the Lakes Region Conservation trust and also stewarded by the Newfound Lake Region Association.

To see the best views of Lake Winnipesaukee (The Big Lake) take Rte. 11A from Gilford/Laconia to Alton. You’ll find Mt. Major, an extremely popular trail, so please have alternatives in mind since it can be crowded on nice days, because it has the best fall scenery over the lake. It is also southeast of Straight Back Mountain in the Belknap Range, where there are other lovely trails. Mt. Major has an elevation of 2,201 ft. and there are a few trails up including the Brook Trail, Boulder Loop and South Loop trails. To access these rather than the main entrance and parking lot, use the Jesus Valley Rd. trailhead entrance. The Society for Protection of NH Forests owns and maintains most of the mountain that is part of the Belknap Range.

The main parking lot and a portion of the trailhead were closed after Labor Day for work on the trails by the Society. The first part of the trail will be re-routed for hikers while years of erosion on the trails are repaired. It’s expected everything will re-open before the peak of foliage season.

There are always lovely views from your car windows in this area, too. If you can’t, or don’t, want to climb Mt. Major you can pull off Route 11 at the viewpoint drive-offs or continue into Alton Bay, take a left and continue to Wolfeboro where there are wonderful views all around Winnipesaukee with many hiking and walking trails.

Two wonderful boardwalks through wetlands offering low foliage colors this time of year, but no summit views, can easily be accessed off Rte. 25B between Meredith and Center Harbor. These are called the ‘Belknap Woods’. The Beaver Pond Loop is just 1.0 miles and the Outer Loop is 2.0 miles. It is maintained by the Squam Lakes Association and just a few of the many trails they care for in the Squam watershed area encompassing about 12 towns.

Further north, the Kancamagus Highway runs from Lincoln following Rt. 112 to North Conway. There are many hairpin turns before the Kancamagus Pass with the highest point of elevation at 2,855 feet. The descent travels beside the Swift River for the remaining 21 miles. This route never disappoints for amazing vistas.

Other fall foliage hikes: Mt. Cardigan in Alexandria/Groton (see Sculptured Rocks area nearby), Mt. Moosilauke in Warren with a 4,802 elevation, Three Ponds Trail in Warren (2.3 miles one way taking about three hours), the Belknap Mountains (Gilford, Gilmanton, Alton), Mount Tecumseh (Waterville Valley) and Mount Chocorua (Tamworth).

NOTE: Please be considerate and pick up after your pets! Also, practice social distancing outside your group and allow space at the peaks. Follow state guidelines to ‘Leave No Trace’ from your walk/hike. Be sure to tell at least one person where you plan to hike/walk for the day if you plan to hike alone. Always bring water and on most peaks there is room for a little picnic if you want to enjoy more time with your family there. Please carry out any trash.

Some of the above information is from local hikers/walkers and from AllTrails.com. Use GPS or online mapping for detailed directions to your goals.

For those who opt not to travel by foot, don’t forget the Foliage Train rides (Hobo and Winnipesaukee RR system) based in Meredith and Lincoln, and the Squam Lakes Science Center tours of ‘Golden Pond’ via pontoon boats. Learn filming history as well as seeing fantastic foliage. 

Also referenced were hiking books written in the late 1970s by the late local author and hiker, Daniel Doan. The books are still very relevant, especially to dedicated hikers and ‘peak baggers’. Those books include: ‘50 Hikes in the White Mtns.’ now in its seventh edition, ‘50 More Hikes in NH’ (co-written, edited and re-published by Ruth Doan MacDougall of Sandwich) and two personal memoirs entitled ‘The Crystal Years’ about growing up and hiking in Orford, and ‘Our Last Backpack’ each written about Doan’s adventures with longtime fellow hiker and ‘peak-bagger’, the late Dr. Claud Sharps of Belmont.

Other local hiking authors include Mike Dickerman (‘White Mountains Hiking History’), Appalachian Mtn. Club NH hiking and walking books (regional/state-wide) and Marty Basch ‘Winter Trails in VT. and NH’, ‘Explorers’ Guide to 50 Best Hikes in New England’ and many biking books.

If you climb (with your dog) during hunting season, please remember your pet needs to wear a blaze orange vest or harness and hikers need a blaze orange hat and/or vest.