No End to Wonderful Fall Hiking Opportunities
Beaver ponds with views of the mountains beyond as viewed from the Zealand Trail. (Tom Caldwell Photo)
By Thomas P. Caldwell
Autumn is a great time to do some hiking, with cooler temperatures and fewer insects to mar the experience. Early fall also provides beautifully colored foliage, adding to the attraction of the natural landscape, waterfalls, and vistas.
Central and Northern New Hampshire offer plenty of hiking opportunities for people of all abilities, and there are a number of day hikes that make it easy to get out in nature and take in all that wonderful scenery. From quick-and-easy treks to more challenging trails, the choices are abundant.
A good place to start is the trail system at The Castle in the Clouds in Moultonborough. Maintained by the Lakes Region Conservation Trust, there is the easy Shannon Brook Trail, which passes several waterfalls on the 0.7-mile path — perfect for introducing young children to the joys of hiking.
One of the waterfalls along the Shannon Brook Trail in Moultonborough. (Tom Caldwell Photo)
For more of a challenge, the property also has moderately difficult trails to the 1,801-foot Bald Knob peak, Turtleback Mountain (2,192’), Mount Roberts (2,566’), Faraway Mountain (2,872’), Mount Shaw (2,989’) and Black Snout Mountain (2,664’).
Hiking in Wonalancet, between Sandwich and Tamworth, provides a quiet atmosphere with not as many other people on the trails. The Brook Path is an easy 2.1-mile flat trail that follows the Wonalancet River through a forest of hemlocks and northern hardwoods. The stream has many small cascades and pools, ending with a wooden dam.
Nearby is the Mount Mexico Trail, a 5.2-mile moderate loop that takes an average of three hours to complete. There are several stream crossings, and portions of the trail are not as well-marked, so it’s easy to wander off but just as easy to find one’s way back onto the trail. During early fall, the leaf cover protects hikers from the heat, but when the temperatures abate and the leaves have fallen, there is the benefit of having better views. Good footwear is recommended.
Parts of the Zealand Trail are rocky with lots of tree roots, so wearing good hiking boots are recommended to avoid sprained ankles. (Tom Caldwell Photo)
Hiking boots are also recommended for the 2.9-mile Zealand Trail in the White Mountains. While the trail is rated moderate, with much of it running along the bed of an old logging railroad, there are sections where the hiker has to scramble over small boulders and along dry, rocky stream beds where a twisted ankle could turn a pleasant trip into misfortune. The attraction of the Zealand Trail is its passage through areas with flat rocks alongside the Zealand River, where one can enjoy swimming and sunbathing; beaver ponds with views of the mountains beyond; and, at the top, an Appalachian Mountain Club hut that offers spectacular views of the White Mountains.
It is possible to extend the Zealand Trail hike by continuing on the Ethan Pond Trail to Thoreau Falls, but that means a trip greater than 10 miles. An alternative is to extend the trip with an overnight stay at the AMC Zealand Hut and make the Thoreau Falls hike on a second day. With reservations, the AMC will provide an evening meal for those staying at the hut.
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Hitting the Shannon Brook trail in early September, the leaves had not yet started to turn colors, but a brisk breeze warned that it would not be long before foliage season would be here. Nonetheless, there was a steady stream of hikers — singles, couples, and families — making their way along the trail and stepping off the path to get a better look at the various falls, with names like Roaring Falls, Twin Falls, Whittier Falls, The Cascades, Emerald Pool Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Falls of Song.
The trail is wide and gently descends, making it easy to walk in either direction. There is only a steep climb for 0.2 miles by the lower bridge.
Most of the side paths to the waterfalls are equally easy, but reaching some of the falls requires a bit more dexterity, and getting back up would be a challenge for some.
The fall colors are starting to appear alongside the Zealand Trail in this view. (Tom Caldwell Photo)
It was mid-September when we took the Zealand Trail and, being farther north, there were already some signs of the coming foliage season. Peak foliage could not be more than a few weeks behind.
After a gentle incline, the trail became steeper, with a tangle of roots and boulders that required a slower pace. It was an 84-degree day, perfect for relaxation but not as great for scrambling over obstacles. However, the cool river running alongside the trail providing plenty of places to rest and recover, perhaps have a snack and rehydrate for the trail ahead.
Soon, it was back into full woods where there were occasional bursts of color. Despite the hot day, there were many hikers ascending and descending the trail. When the path leveled out on the old train bed, with the leaves providing some welcoming shade, it was easy to quickly recover from the more taxing portion of the trail.
Then the trail was skirting a large pond, partially dammed up by the beavers that were constantly making work for the trail crews, which have built wooden bridges over areas where the water has backed up. In the distance was a tree-lined hill with hints of color, and beyond that, a gray, flat-topped mountain. It was a place where it would not be unusual to see a moose cooling off in the water.
It took about 1.75 hours to reach the 2.3-mile mark where the A-Z Trail crossed, and a sign indicated that the AMC Zealand Hut was just 0.5 mile ahead. It was at that point that the trail began rising more steeply, and the final 0.1 mile was very steep, although supplied with stone steps to make it easier to navigate.
These are just some of the trails in the region that make for perfect fall hiking. The Appalachian Mountain Club and Lakes Region Conservation Trust have maps and guides to other equally good paths to follow, as well as directions to find them.
Happy trails!