Cruising Squam During Foliage Season

Squam Lake Natural Science Center’s Discover Squam cruise with Captain Dave.

Story and Photos by Kathi Caldwell-Hopper

During foliage season, Squam Lake is beautiful. The weather is warm, the landscape breathtaking in colors of red, gold and orange, and the lake water sparkling. It is the perfect time for a cruise to look for loons and eagles and to enjoy being on Squam Lake.

A Squam Lakes Natural Science Center lake cruise is a great way to experience Squam Lake. Those who want to take a cruise can do so by calling ahead to choose a day and time and then arrive about 20 minutes before your boat is scheduled to depart.

Parking at the Squam Lakes Natural Science Center designated lot (on Science Center Road) is convenient. From there it is a short walk across the street to the dock area, where the canopied pontoon boats await.

My daughter, Megan, and I took the Discover Squam pontoon boat cruise on a breezy, sunny September weekday. We opted for the 11 a.m. time slot and were excited to get out on Squam Lake and see some iconic spots that make the area beloved to so many.

The pontoon boat we were scheduled to be on was driven by Captain Dave, a member of the Center’s staff, was our narrator and driver. We boarded the boat and took our seats in the roomy interior, protected by a cover to keep out any direct sun or rain. Luckily for us, the day was sunny and clear, and while it was actually hot on land, we prudently brought jackets, knowing the weather could be much windier on the open water.

The cruise filled with vacationers and locals who had the same idea as us: to look for loons and other wildlife from the vantage point of the boat and also to see some of the places where the famous movie “On Golden Pond” was filmed.

We started our cruise right on schedule and Captain Dave began by telling us we would head first to Little Squam Lake. A natural channel connects Big and Little Squam, and we marveled at how modest in size Little Squam is, although Captain Dave told us it is 410 acres. Only a small number of businesses are on Little Squam and most of the cottages are privately owned.

Near the entrance to Big Squam, Captain Dave pointed out a spot where Norman, one of the characters in the movie “On Golden Pond,” was filmed gassing up his boat.

Sailing on Squam Lake.

Then it was on to Big Squam, where we went through Colton Cove, one of 20 coves in Squam Lake. Captain Dave told us the older homes on Squam were built closer to the water’s edge, and most had boathouses. He added that rules have changed over time, and the newer homes must be built 50 feet from the shoreline. (In my opinion, one of the best things about the cruise is the chance to see some of the homes at the entrance to the lake, with friendly folks pausing in their yard work to wave and nod hello.)

As our tour began in earnest, Captain Dave told us a big rule: If we “see something, say something.” He was referring to our quest for loon sightings and other wildlife, meaning if we see an animal, we should let him know so all passengers can share the viewing.

He pointed out Red Hill in the distance, explaining how the lake was formed by glaciers, and added that most of the beaches on Squam were man-made.

Other facts include 33 named Big Squam Lake islands, and some are great spots to look for loons and bald eagles. Dave added that a good way to discern a loon from other birds is if their beak is parallel to the water, it is a loon.

One of my favorite parts of the cruise/tour was a look at Potato Island, which has a pretty seasonal home peeking from the trees. I could imagine spending a summer on the island, waking to the early-morning sound of loons calling to one another across the still water and the gentle lapping of waves on the shoreline. I think it would be a lovely way to spend a summer - at least with a boat to reach shore now and then!

As we continued on, Captain Dave told us we were looking at Chocorua Island, fondly called Church Island. It was on this island that the first boy’s camp began. Dave asked us to imagine coming to Squam in the 1880s. This was when and where Dartmouth college student, Ernest Balch, started the first-ever summer camp.

Camp Chocorua was the summer home of boys who had to love camp life or face a bleak summer of making campfires, hauling wood, sleeping under the stars, and swimming in the lake. Most boys loved it, and the camp grew over the years. These days, it is the site of a beautiful outdoor cathedral where summer church services and weddings are held.

As we headed on, one of the cruise passengers spotted a loon family off Mink Island. There were binoculars on board, and we were all invited to use a pair to get a clearer view. The binoculars were appreciated and gave us a better look at things (loons included) during our trip.

One of the modest-sized islands on Squam Lake.

Captain Dave shared a lot of information, such as that loons start to turn a dusty gray color during the fall foliage season. He also mentioned there were eight nests on Squam Lake and relayed information about the loon’s yearly calendar. Loons return to the area after ice-out in approximately April and nest in June. Chicks are born in July and often migrate with their loon parents to Sheep Island. He mentioned that should we be out on Squam, take note of and respect the orange signs, alerting everyone that we would are near a loon nest area and that it would be important to stay well back.

As we drove by Rockywold Deephaven Camps, Dave told us fun facts about camping there long ago. Families lived in cottages with refrigerators cooled by huge ice blocks. The ice was cut on Squam Lake during the winter and stored for summer use. It is interesting to note that the ice harvests still occur each winter.

We passed views of Rattlesnake, (where we could spot hikers high on the mountainside), Five Finger Point, Jumping Rock, and even an eagle in a tree.

Of course, no cruise would be complete without a glimpse of the spot from “On Golden Pond,” known as Purgatory Rock, where two of the main characters crashed their boat. Captain Dave shared some information about the scene and the area that I did not previously know.

We stopped to see an eagle near Three Sisters Island, and not far from there, we saw three loons.

We returned to the docking area all too soon and said a fond farewell to Captain Dave, who had given us such an informative, fun tour.

For Squam Lakes Natural Science Center’s (SLNSC) lake cruises, call 603-968-7194 or visit www.nhnature.org.